With a diverse landscape and a martial arts tradition rooted in
tai chi, Niumulin has everything to calm the mind and soul. Wei
Tian and Hu Meidong report
Niumulin offers a quiet getaway with its pristine, primitive
forests, just an hour's drive from Yongchun county, East China's
Fujian province. The forest is not only a refuge from the hustle
and bustle of urban life, with barely touched subtropical
bio-diversity; but also allows exploration of a well-preserved
local culture, whose high point is Wing Chun kungfu.
Niumulin has a diverse landscape ranging from subtropical
rainforest to broad leaf forest. But the most impressive sight is
still provided by the plant that has become a symbol of China -
bamboo groves.
The classic fight scene in the bamboo forest in Crouching Tiger,
Hidden Dragon captures the look of Niumulin in all its glory.
The only difference being, instead of kungfu masters flying
through the bamboo reeds, you have monkeys - hundreds of them.
Walking along a stone lined path, snaking its way in the shadows
of Niumulin, you can see warning signs everywhere. One of them
reads: "Do not tease the monkeys, they are not interested in
flirting, they only believe in the law of the jungle."
But of the group of monkeys we encountered, only one jumped down
and grabbed the cookie in my hand, the others simply ignored
us.
"The monkeys here are much more polite and civilized than those I
have encountered in Emei Mountain in Sichuan province," our guide
said.
Niumulin is one of the few relatively undisturbed tourist
destinations of China.
As a national scenic spot, Yongchun county forest has had a
logging ban since 1958, and is one of Fujian's best virgin forests,
on a par with the better-known Xishuangbanna of Yunnan
province.
Locals believe the name Yongchun, which means "everlasting
spring", has blessed them with prosperity and longevity. But they
also know the place would not be what it is today had local
officials not chosen a development road less traveled.
"Unlike some of our neighboring counties that have pursued
industrial development, we have focused on protecting our natural
resources and cultural legacy," says local official Xu Chunhui.
Eco-tourism is expected to become a pillar industry of the
county, employing half-a-million people, according to Xu.
"Being a tour guide may not make as much as working in mining or
manufacturing, but at least we do not have to worry about accidents
and poisoning, with the added advantage of getting a good
mountain-climbing workout every day," our guide said.
Yongchun is also the cradle of Wing Chun kungfu.
It is said this kungfu genre, made famous by the hit movie Ip
Man, originated in a local kungfu skill known as the White Crane
style.
Like many other Chinese martial arts, White Crane emphasizes tai
chi, a Chinese exercise system that uses slow, smooth body
movements to relax the mind and body, and requires a peaceful
environment. The forests surrounding the county offer a natural
arena for this martial arts.
South Shaolin Temple, in Quanzhou city, is just a two-hour drive
from Niumulin, and is as famous as its Northern counterpart in
Henan province, only smaller and less commercialized. But the
kungfu here is no less dazzling, and includes some long forgotten
skills such as "walking on water".
Yongchun's melodious Nanyin music is another major draw. The
songs sung in the southern Fujian dialect, go back more than 1,000
years and in 2009, were included in UNESCO's list of intangible
cultural heritage.